Day 18 - Castell’Arquato to Fidenza - Thursday July 2, 2015

We were aiming to get up at 6am to get going early and beat the heat, but I had a headache I was trying to get rid of. Russell got up at 6:30am and was really banging about (trying to get me up), which I finally did. The breakfast, like the dinner, was excellent. A fruit cocktail with strawberries, kiwis, and all other sorts of fruits, granole, yogurt – my favorite! Russell still thought the breakfast at the Agritourism place in Chambave was the best, though.

We were on the road at around 8am, with about 25km to go. Russell was concerned that the GPS for today was not taking us to Fidenza, which was likely because our itinerary changed for the last few days. So we were, ahhhh, depending on the route notes.

It was up major hills, down into the valley, through vineyards, all morning. 

At one point we descended a very steep downhill track through a farmer’s vineyards, aiming toward the Bacedasco Alto bell tower. At least we had something to aim for. After climbing up to the Bacedasco Alto bell tower, we cut through as many vineyards as we could to get to Bacedasco Basso. We next climbed a great ridge then descended down to the Stirone river, crossed a bridge, and entered the provincial Parc of the Stirone.

We climbed 829 metres, primarily in the hot baking sun, getting to the Parc, and it was at least 34 degrees.

We entered the trees at the Parc, which sounded like we would finally be in the shade, but much of that was in sun as well. We were to walk about 10 km through the Parc to get to the outskirts of Fidenza. We read in our route notes that we were to get to a picnic place at around 16km. We did get to a picnic place, and had a lovely picnic lunch, including a beer we had left over from yesterday, and were transporting in the back pack so it didn’t explode in the suitcase. The beer was pretty hot, but still okay. We then carried on for about another 2km, when I was getting a bad feeling about things because we were not hitting any of the landmarks on the route notes. We turned around and went all the way back to an information panel just before the picnic place, and with the help of some Italians out for a picnic, one of which spoke English, figured out that when we entered the Parc in the first place, we went the wrong way! I had even said to Russell when we entered the woods that the instructions should have said whether to enter on the left or the right. What they said was, ‘cross the road and enter the woods’. We always walk facing the traffic, and he must have been walking with the traffic coming behind him.

That was an epic error really, accounting for close to 10km. The Italians that were helping us at the information board suggested we should go to Salsomaggiore Terme, then to Fidenza, rather than going all the way back to the Stirone bridge and entering the Parc from the other direction.

It was 2pm, very hot, and we started walking toward Salsomaggiore. It was a miracle, but we passed a pizzeria/bar about 1 km from there, and I asked the fellow on the cash if he would call a taxi for us to go to Fidenza. He said he would be a taxi for us to Salsomaggiore, and we could get the train from there to Fidenza. We thanked him profusely, and after a bit he showed up at the side of the bar in his car.

He was very nice and kind, and very interested that we were going to see Pope Francesco in Rome. On the way he stopped at the salt baths in Salsomaggiore for a picture, then to the train station. 

All of this was way more than 1 km. Russell tried to give him 10 euros for driving us, but he absolutely refused, saying to put in a good word about him to Pope Francesco.

We got to the train station at 2:40pm and the next train to Fidenza was 2:59pm. The train ride took 8 minutes and cost a total of 2.6 euros.

We got off the train, walked one block, saw a sign for our Hotel Astoria, walked two blocks and were here at 3:30pm. What an angel!

We have noticed over the last few days, very few signs for the via Francigena, and we haven’t met any other pilgrims. We have talked to some locals passing by, and most of them have never heard of the via Francigena. But those who have are very enthusiastic and wish you a good journey.

The hotel is nice, but in a big city, and sort of living up to our expectation of the hotels in the bigger cities. We asked the lady at the desk about a supermercato, and she gave some directions. Russell set out while I did my laundry and was going to have a shower – to return 45 minutes later without luck. He then tried to find a store on the internet, and disappeared for another 40 minutes!

At dinner, there was a discrepancy between our voucher, which said dinner was included, and her instructions, which said it wasn’t. I came down and talked about it, of course it is a different menu if it is included, and she was saying order off the menu and I’ll clear it up tomorrow. I told her to call Beppe and clear it up right away, which she did, and dinner was included.

The place we were supposed to be today before the revision sounded really lovely. It was an Agritourism place 10km out of the city, so of course supper would have been included.

We did end up doing our 25km today, but didn’t reach our destination on foot. Tomorrow is our day off!!! I’m so excited. We will take the train to Fornovo. Our hotel tomorrow looks absolutely fabulous. It has a pool, and a wonderful garden. Look it up on the internet – it’s at http://www.albergocavalieri.it/

It’ going to be a relaxing day lounging around the pool.

The walk we are foregoing is 31km and its forecast to be 37 degrees tomorrow.